July 2008 - picnics, potlucks and other moveable feasts
ICED CUCUMBER SOUP WITH COCONUT MILK, AVOCADO AND CORIANDER/CILANTRO
A delicate, pale green soup for summer – chill it well, take it to the picnic or potluck in a thermos and bring some glasses for serving.
Makes 1 litre, enough for 4-6 people
2 large cucumbers, about 1 kg total
salt
1 x 400ml can coconut milk
plenty of chopped cilantro/coriander
1 avocado
1 fresh green chile (peperoncini, piment vert), seeded and very finely chopped
[or a pinch of cayenne or Espelette pepper]
juice of 1-2 limes
· Peel the cucumbers and cut in quarters lengthwise
· Remove seeds, chop flesh small and put in a colander
· Sprinkle with salt and leave in the sink to drain (30 minutes)
· Rinse the cucumbers and pat dry with paper towels
· Put in the blender with coconut milk, cilantro/coriander, avocado flesh, finely chopped chile (or cayenne/Espelette pepper) and lime juice and blend till smooth – don’t overdo it or the coconut milk may curdle
· Check the seasoning, adding more salt and pepper if required
· Chill the soup well
COURGETTE AND PEPPER OMELETTE CAKE WITH CREAM
CHEESE AND PROSCIUTTO OR SMOKED SALMON
FILLING
Make a bunch of omelettes, some flavoured with red pepper, some with courgettes, layer them with cream cheese and smoked salmon or prosciutto and chill well before serving in wedges. Great for déjeuner sur l'herbe
Serves 8-10
10 eggs
salt and pepper
plenty of chopped tarragon
1 tbsp concentrated tomato purée
plenty of chopped parsley
olive oil
2-3 courgettes (about 350g), diced small
1-2 spring onions, finely chopped
2 large red peppers (about 450g) roasted, peeled and diced small (or 400g bottled peeled peppers)
1 fresh red chile (or 1 dried)
2 cloves garlic
Filling
300g cream cheese (St Moret, Philadelphia, Boursin, Tartare etc.)
5-6 tbsp fromage blanc
plenty of chopped chives and basil
300-400g thinly sliced prosciutto or smoked salmon
· Break the eggs into two bowls (5 in each), season with salt + pepper
· Add chopped tarragon to one bowl and chopped parsley and tomato purée to the other – mix well with fork, whisk or hand-held blender
· Heat a film of olive oil in a non-stick frying pan and cook the diced courgettes and chopped onions over lively heat or until barely cooked and all liquid has evaporated (4-5 minutes)
· Scrape the courgettes into the eggs with tarragon
· Heat a little more oil in the same pan and add the garlic – cook briefly, then add the diced peppers and cook till just soft (3-4 minutes)
· Add these to the eggs with parsley and tomato purée
· Line a 22cm springform tin generously with clingfilm
· Take a 22cm non-stick frying pan (bottom diameter) and heat more oil
· Pour in a soup ladleful of omelette mixture to make 3-4 omelettes from each mixture, turning them once
· Stack them up on a plate as they are ready
· For the filling, tip cream cheese into a bowl, work in enough fromage blanc to make cheese spreadable, stir in chopped chives and basil
· Put one omelette into the cake tin, spread with a thin layer of cream cheese and lay prosciutto or smoked salmon slices on top, cutting to fit
· Continue with successive layers of omelettes, cream cheese and prosciutto/smoked salmon, alternating the courgette/pepper omelettes
· Finish with an omelette, close up the clingfilm, put a plate on top with a can of beans (or similar weighty item) and refrigerate the omelette cake
· Release the springform, remove the clingfilm, set the cake on a serving plate and cut in wedges to serve

A PICNIC FLATBREAD STUFFED WITH
SALAD AND COLD MEATS
Here’s a fun idea for a picnic bread: take a softish flatbread – ciabatta, foccacia or similar – and remove a slice from the bottom. Hollow out the top (keep the crumbs for a gratin), spread the hollowed-out top and the bottom with mayo/pesto/mustard or a mixture, and fill with layers of cold meats, tomatoes, peppers and other saladstuffs. The contents will depend on your tastes and what you have to hand – get creative, have fun!
Serves 6
1 flatbread, about 25cm diameter or 30 x 20 cm, 1 day old
mayonnaise/pesto/mustard
tomatoes
salt and pepper
olive oil
basil leaves
cold meats: salami, coppa, prosciutto etc.
soft fresh goat’s cheese or Chavroux
peeled peppers
avocado
crunchy (iceberg-type) lettuce leaves
· Slice the bottom off the flatbread and set this aside – this will be the base
· Invert the top and scratch out the crumb with a fork to make a shell (keep the crumbs for a gratin topping – they freeze well)
· Spread the base and the inside of the inverted top with a thin coating of mayo/pesto/mustard or a mixture of these
· Slice some tomatoes and put a layer in the inverted top, season with salt and pepper, sprinkle with olive oil and add a layer of basil leaves
· Follow with a layer of cold meats, overlapping slightly
· Add a layer of soft fresh goat’s cheese or Chavroux, crunchy lettuce leaves, strips of peeled pepper, some avocado segments, more basil leaves and olive oil
· Continue in this way with successive layers till the shell is full
· Put the base on top of the shell and turn the whole thing right side up
· Place on a board or dish, put another board on top and place a weight on top (cans of beans or similar)
· If possible, refrigerate the loaf for several hours or overnight – this makes it easier to slice
The real, Burgundian jambon persillé is a big production. Here’s a simpler recipe using cooked smoked pork (Schiffala/Schüfeli) mixed with aspic jelly, garlic and tons of parsley.

Amanda and her handiwork...
Makes a small 600ml terrine serving 4-6
600g boneless smoked pork shoulder (Schiffala/Schüfeli)
Parsley stalks, thyme, bay leaf
1 onion
a generous handful of parsley, leaves only, chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 sachet aspic crystals, enough to set 250ml liquid
· Put the pork shoulder in a medium-sized pan with parsley, thyme, bay leaf and onion, bring to a boil, simmer gently for 45 minutes
· When cool enough to handle, lift out pork shoulder, reserving the liquid
· Strain the liquid through a coffee filter or muslin and measure out 250ml (use the rest to make soup)
· Put this in a pan, sprinkle the aspic crystals on top and heat till dissolved and the liquid is clear
· Pare away any skin and fat from pork shoulder and chop meat roughly
· Put the parsley in a food processor with the garlic and process till well chopped (or chop by hand with a sharp, stout knife); add shoulder and process again till roughly chopped – not too much, it should have some texture
· Add the dissolved aspic and process again briefly to mix
· Turn the mixture into a small terrine or loaf tin, pressing down well
· Refrigerate till firm
· Turn out terrine, slice thickly and serve with new potatoes and salad
SMOKED CHICKEN SALAD WITH FLAGEOLETS
AND FIVE-MINUTE EGGS
A pretty pink/white/green summer salad inspired by a recipe in Elizabeth David’s book Summer Cooking. Prepare all the component parts a day ahead, ready to assemble. Dunking the smoked chicken in boiling water makes it easier to peel away the skin.

Serves 8
1 smoked chicken (about 1.2kg) – to give ca. 700g meat
4 eggs
1 x 800g tin flageolets
lettuce leaves, red onion and tarragon leaves to garnish
Dressing
Salt, pepper, mustard
150ml olive oil
50ml sherry vinegar
1 egg
a pinch of sugar
· Put the chicken in a large bowl and cover with boiling water
· Leave for 10 minutes, then peel off all the skin and discard
· Take all flesh off bones, shred in manageable pieces
· Put the eggs in a pan of cold water, bring to a boil and set the timer for 5 minutes
· Drain the eggs, rinse in abundant cold water, remove shells
· Blend together all the ingredients for the dressing in the liquidizer or in a jug using a hand-held blender
· To assemble the salad, arrange lettuce leaves in a shallow dish or platter
· Rinse and drain the flageolets and arrange in a ring on the lettuce leaves around the edge of the dish
· Put the shredded chicken in the middle
· Cut eggs in quarters and arrange them around
· Drizzle dressing over the salad and sprinkle thinly sliced or chopped red onion and tarragon leaves on top
RHUBARB TART WITH MERINGUE TOPPING
If you sprinkle the rhubarb with sugar and leave it in a colander to drain it will render lots of juice and your tart won't have a soggy pastry bottom. This one has an added layer of ground nuts, which also act as a kind of waterproofing layer and give an agreeably nutty crunch to things.
Serves 6
1 kg rhubarb
150g sugar
250g shortcrust pastry
2-3 tbsp ground almonds or hazelnuts
1 egg + 100ml crème fraîche épaisse
3 egg whites + pinch of salt
150g sugar
2 tbsp slivered almonds
· Trim the rhubarb, cut in 2 cm chunks and put in a large bowl with the sugar
· Leave to macerate for at least 2 hours, longer if wished
· Heat the oven to 200C
· Roll out the pastry to fit a 26cm quiche pan with removable base and put the pastry in it – scatter a thin layer of ground nuts in the bottom (provides a bit of waterproofing so you don’t get soggy pastry)
· Drain the rhubarb and pack it in tightly on top of nuts
· Bake in preheated oven for 20 minutes or until the pastry is beginning to set
· Mix together the egg and crème fraîche
· Remove tart from oven and pour over crème fraîche mixture
· Return tart to oven and bake for a further 15-20 minutes or until the custard is set
· Beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt till stiff, add sugar and continue beating till stiff and glossy and you could turn the bowl upside down without the whites falling out
· Remove tart from oven and reduce temperature to 170C
· Spoon the meringue mixture over the tart, sprinkle with slivered almonds and return to the oven for another 15-20 minutes or until meringue is lightly golden and nicely risen
· Cool the tart on a rack – it will sink down
· Serve at room temperature or chilled