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Summer dishes

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Here's a selection of summer dishes, starting with a cool tomato and fresh goats' cheese terrine, followed by a Middle eastern bean salad. The pièce de résistance is a cappon magro, a traditional summer fish salad from Liguria. The feast winds up with a luscious caramelized meringue torte filled with lemon curd and whipped cream.

TOMATO AND GOATSCHEESE TERRINE WITH BASIL

For a small rectangular terrine or loaf tin 15 x 10 x 6 cm – about 8 thick slices

5-6 large ripe tomatoes – red and yellow if available
coarse salt and pepper
300g soft fresh, rindless goats’ cheese (e.g. Petit Billy)
a large bunch of basil + some extra sprigs to garnish
olive oil
Balsamic vinegar

  • Cut a thick slice from each of the four sides of the tomatoes, leaving a square core in the middle
  • Discard the cores
  • Scoop out the seeds and discard; flatten the slices a bit with the palm of your hand
  • Brush the tin with oil and lay a large piece of clingfilm in it
  • Put a layer of tomatoes (rounded side downwards) in the bottom of the tin and season with salt and pepper – trim them if necessary and pack them in snugly to make a complete layer
  • Lay some basil leaves on top of the tomatoes and pack slices of goats cheese on top of the basil
  • Continue with more tomatoes, cheese, basil and seasonings, ending with a layer of tomato slices, rounded sides upwards
  • Bring the clingfilm up and over the tomatoes, press down firmly and place a sheet of foil and a can of something heavy on top
  • Refrigerate the terrine for at least 24 hours and up to 2 days
  • Turn out the terrine and slice quite thickly with a very sharp knife or electric carving knife
  • Lay the slices on plates and drizzle olive oil and Balsamic vinegar around (not on top, or the Balsamic stains the goats’ cheese
  • Garnish with extra basil leaves and serve with a little nest of salad (mixed leaves, rocket etc.)
  • Variation: use cooked, sliced beetroot instead of tomatoes, and dill instead of basil
LEBANESE WHITE BEAN SALAD WITH CHERRY TOMATOES
AND RUCOLA (ROCKET), GARLIC DRESSING

Serves 4

Dressing
1 head garlic, preferably fresh (i.e. new season’s)
 a little olive oil
salt and pepper
6 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp Balsamic vinegar
Salad
1 x 800g can white haricot beans (or cook your own, using 250g dried beans)
1 red onion or 2 spring onions (scallions), finely chopped 
2 tbsp drained, chopped capers
plenty of finely chopped mint
1 pack cherry tomatoes, halved 
a bag rucola (rocket) leaves, trimmed and chopped
vine leaves or lettuce leaves 

  • Heat the oven to 200oC or light the barbecue
  • Cut the top off the garlic head, sprinkle with oil, wrap in foil and roast/grill for ca. 30 minutes or until soft
  • Separate the garlic cloves; use 3 for the dressing and serve the rest with meat or fish (or refrigerate – it will keep for a few days in the fridge)
  • Squeeze the flesh out of the 3 reserved garlic cloves and put in a small bowl or jug; add salt, pepper, oil and vinegar and blend till smooth using a hand-blender (or fork)
  • Drain the beans (rinse if using canned beans) and put them in a large bowl
  • Add the garlic dressing, onion, capers, mint, salt and pepper to taste, toss to mix well
  • Fold in the halved tomatoes without crushing them too much
  • Line a serving dish with vine leaves or lettuce leaves 
  • Arrange the bean and tomato salad on top and sprinkle with rucola


CAPPON MAGRO (GENOESE FISH AND VEGETABLE SALAD)

A wonderful festive dish for a summer party. The list of ingredients looks daunting and there are lots of component parts, but the whole thing can – in fact should – be done a day or so in advance for the flavours to ripen. 

Serves 8-12, depending on the rest of your menu

Bread base
4-5 thick slices country bread
1 fat clove garlic, peeled
vinegar
Fish
700g assorted firm white fish fillets (e.g. saumonette, lotte)
1 onion, 1 bayleaf, 1 sprig thyme, parsley stalks
1 tbsp vinegar
1 tsp peppercorns, salt
Vegetables
a good handful each of: small new potatoes, new carrots, cauliflower florets, French beans
2 cooked beetroots, peeled and diced
125ml/½ cup olive oil
juice of 1 lemon
Dressing
lots of flat-leaf parsley, leaves only
2 cloves garlic, mashed
2 tbsp capers, chopped
8 anchovy fillets, chopped
6 green olives, stoned (pitted)
plenty of chopped fennel
4 tbsp pine nuts
3 tbsp fresh breadcrumbs
the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs
2-3 tbsp vinegar
250ml olive oil
 Garnish
12 black olives
2 hard-boiled eggs, quartered
16 prawns, cooked and peeled (save 3-5 for the top) 

  • Remove crusts from bread slices and discard; toast or dry out slices in a cool oven until crispy
  • Rub the peeled garlic clove all over both sides of the bread
  • Sprinkle with vinegar and arrange in a large serving dish – the bread should completely cover the bottom
  • Put 1 litre water into a wide, shallow pan, add the halved onion, bay leaf, thyme, parsley stalks, vinegar, peppercorns and salt to taste
  • Bring to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes
  • Poach the fish fillets until just opaque – 2-3 minutes
  • Pull the pan off the heat and leave fish to cool in the stock
  • Bring a large pan of salted water to a boil, add the new potatoes and cook for 10 minutes
  • Add the carrots and cook 5 minutes more, then the cauliflower florets and trimmed French beans and cook 5 minutes more – all vegetables should be barely tender
  • Drain the vegetables and slice or cut in manageable pieces
  • Put in a bowl and dress with the olive oil and lemon juice
  • Put all sauce ingredients in a food processor or blender and blend till smooth – it should be a pouring consistency – if too thick, loosen with a little water
  • Assembly: spread a thin layer of sauce on the bread base, then build up layers of fish, peeled prawns and vegetables into a nice dome, adding more sauce as you go
  • Finish with the quartered hard-boiled eggs, olives and decorate with reserved unpeeled prawns


CARAMELIZED MERINGUE TORTE
WITH LEMON CURD FILLING

Serves 8-10
 125g sugar
3 tbsp water
6 egg whites
a pinch of salt
300g sugar
1 tbsp Maizena (cornflour/cornstarch)
1 tbsp vinegar
500ml whipping cream
1 jar lemon curd
wild strawberries and mint leaves to garnish

  • Draw 2 circles each 28 cm in diameter on separate sheets of baking paper and place paper on baking sheets
  • Heat the oven to 120oC
  • For the caramel, put the sugar and water in a small pan, heat gently till the sugar dissolves (do NOT stir)
  • Raise the heat and boil steadily to a rich golden caramel
  • Immediately drizzle the caramel onto one of the paper discs in criss-crossed lines
  • Beat the egg whites with salt at high speed until thick and creamy
  • Reduce the speed of the beaters and add the sugar in a steady stream
  • Mix together the Maizena and vinegar and add this too
  • Divide the mixture between the two circles traced on the baking paper, pushing it out to the edges with a spatula or dough scraper
  • Bake the meringues for about 40 minutes or until just set but not coloured (they are done when they will lift easily off the paper)
  • Whip the cream stiffly and fold in the lemon curd
  • Remove meringues from oven, peel away the paper from the un-caramelized one and place on a serving plate
  • Spread with lemon curd and cream, invert the caramelised meringue on top and peel away the second paper (provided the caramel is still a little warm the paper should come away easily)
  • Refrigerate the torte for several hours or overnight
  • Garnish with wild strawberries or redcurrant sprays, and mint leaves